Guangdong's Lufeng in 2 days: Mountains, sea and shadow puppetry

Author︰Hua Siqi

Since January this year, Lufengdong and Lufengnan stations in Shanwei have been added as direct high-speed rail stops from Hong Kong, making the journey from West Kowloon Station just over an hour.

Whether for visiting family or a weekend getaway, Lufeng is now easier than ever to reach.

If you have never been, a weekend trip is a good place to start. This two-day itinerary takes you from the hills to the sea and into the world of intangible cultural heritage, offering a taste of Lufeng at its most local.

Xuanwu Mountain

Lufeng's Xuanwu Mountain tourism began in 1980. Jieshi Town, mountain-ringed, was a Ming-Qing gateway and coastal defense hub. (Image Source: The People's Government of Lufeng City)
Pictured is the main hall of Yuanshan Temple at the Xuanwu Mountain Scenic Spot in Jieshi Town, Lufeng, with Fuxing Pagoda in the background. (Image Source: VCG)
The octagonal 3-storey Fuxing Pagoda (18.8m) at Xuanwu Mountain was first built in 1578, rebuilt as stone in 1865, dynamited in Cultural Revolution, and rebuilt in 1981. (Image Source: The People's Government of Lufeng City)
Below Fuxing Pagoda, the cliff inscription by Commander Deng Wanlin in Guangxu 16th year reads "A mountain needn't be high". (Image Source: VCG)
The Lufeng Jieshi Xuanwu Mountain Scenic Area held the first Cross-Strait Folk Culture and Sports Exchange in March 2025, which included a five-colour lion dance performance, creating a grand scene. (Image Source: VCG)

Many visitors come to Xuanwu Mountain to pray for blessings. At its heart stands Yuanshan Temple, first built in 1127 during the Southern Song dynasty.

Blending Buddhist and Taoist traditions, the temple is dedicated to Xuantian Shangdi, known in Hong Kong as Pak Tai, and is especially popular with worshippers seeking guidance on career, love, family and health.

Xuanwu Mountain, one of Lufeng's best-known landmarks, also bears witness to the city’s strong coastal defence tradition. In the Ming dynasty, Jieshi Wei at the foot of the mountain was established to guard against pirate raids, while in the Qing dynasty the area remained an important military post.

Inside Yuanshan Temple, visitors can still see calligraphy left by historical figures including Lin Zexu and Liu Yongfu, adding a further layer of historical resonance to this long-revered site.

Jinxiang Beach

Lufeng's 18.7km Jinxiang Beach buildings were turned into Rainbow Town by 120+ Dafen Village painters. (Image Source: VCG)
Lufeng's Jinxiang Beach, once degraded by illegal aquaculture and fishing, was renovated by the government into a tourist spot with clear water, fine sand, and sunsets. (Image Source: VCG)
Jinxiang Beach has a monument marking Zhou Enlai's sea crossing, with a poem by Lai Shaoqi on the back. (Image Source: VCG)

About a 20-minute drive from Xuanwu Mountain lies Jinxiang Beach, also known as Jinxiang Silver Beach, a stretch of coast often praised as eastern Guangdong’s "golden shoreline".

In recent years, as part of efforts to boost rural revitalisation and tourism, local authorities transformed the nearby fishing village into a "Rainbow Town", decorating ordinary homes with colourful murals and turning it into a popular social media spot.

At sunset, the beach takes on a gentle charm: the sea glitters in the fading light, small boats rock softly near the shore, and children laugh as they search for shells in the sand. It is an idyllic scene that makes everyday worries feel far away.

Jinxiang Beach is more than a scenic retreat; it also marks an important moment in China’s revolutionary history. After the Nanchang Uprising failed in 1927, revolutionary leaders including Zhou Enlai were sheltered by local residents before boarding a boat from Jinxiang Beach to Hong Kong.

Their help, given at great personal risk, reflected the loyalty and courage long associated with the people of Hailufeng.

Lufeng's shadow puppetry

Lufeng shadow puppetry was included in the national list of intangible cultural heritage in 2006. Performing shadow puppetry requires delicate fingertip manipulation and flexible transitions of light and shadow, which takes great skill. (Image Source: VCG)
The red revolutionary-themed play "Women's Pink Gun Brigade", a fusion of Lufeng shadow puppetry and drama. (Image Source: VCG)
At the Lufeng Shadow Puppetry Inheritance and Protection Centre, visitors can learn how a piece of animal hide is transformed into a shadow puppet. (Image Source: VCG)

After taking in Lufeng’s mountains and coastline, it is time to turn to one of the city's cultural treasures: Lufeng shadow puppetry.

At the Lufeng Shadow Puppetry Inheritance and Preservation Centre in Donghai Subdistrict, visitors can learn about the history and artistry of this tradition, one of the three major shadow puppetry schools in China.

With a long history dating back to the Song dynasty, Chinese shadow puppetry had already become well developed and widely popular centuries ago.

Lufeng shadow puppetry is the only surviving branch of the Chaozhou school, bringing together literature, painting, carving, craftsmanship and performance.

Most of the puppets and stage props are made of cowhide. The figures are finely outlined, with movable limbs that allow for graceful and lively gestures. Bringing a single puppet to life is no easy task: it usually takes two performers working together, one controlling the upper body and the other the lower half, to create movements such as flying, dancing, walking and jumping.

At the centre, visitors can see traditional puppets, props, musical instruments and scripts, and may even get the chance to watch the performers' remarkable handwork up close or try operating a puppet themselves. It is well worth a visit.

Read moreWhy are young Chinese flocking to Jingdezhen?|Slower Escapes

Read more: Exploring Quanzhou: Starting point of the Maritime Silk Road

China's best spots for May flowers: Peonies, roses and water lilies

Meeting a thousand years of history in Shanxi's Yuncheng|Slower Escapes

Anji: Bamboo, coffee and slow living|Slower Escapes

Why are young Chinese flocking to Jingdezhen?|Slower Escapes