All you need to know about HK's Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade

Editor︰Hua Siqi
Introduction
Hong Kong is renowned not only for its modern and bustling commercial atmosphere, but also for its rich and living intangible cultural heritage (ICH). These intangible cultural treasures, like the city's pulse, beat silently in the streets and alleys, and during festivals, telling Hong Kong's unique stories. ICH represents not just the way of life and mindset of a community, but also the spiritual values of a city. To preserve ICH is to inherit Hong Kong's cultural DNA. Currently, Hong Kong's ICH inventory comprises 507 items, 12 of which are included as national-level Intangible Cultural Heritage. To help readers unravel the significance of these national heritage items from within their profound historical and cultural context, "Our China Story" launches a 12-part series titled "Heritage in Numbers", using figures to explain and explore HK's intangible cultural heritage.

Hong Kong's Tai O, known as the "Venice of the East", transforms into a vibrant scene during the Dragon Boat Festival. Residents burn incense and joss paper from their balconies, creating a striking contrast between the vivid dragon boats and the old stilt houses.

This unique cultural spectacle, the "Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade", has been recognised as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage.

A history of over 100 years

Legend has it that over 100 years ago, when a plague broke out in Tai O (大澳), a fisherman suggested organising a dragon boat ritual to thank the deities and dispel the plague.

So, the fishermen fetched the deities from various temples in Tai O, placed their statues on sampans towed by dragon boats, and paraded through the water channels of Tai O to cleanse the community. The fishermen also burned paper offerings along the route to appease the wandering ghosts, and as a result, the plague was eradicated.

Since then, the "Dragon Boat Water Parade" has become an annual tradition in the Tai O fishing village.

2 opening bridges

Tai O has two opening pedestrian bridges, namely the Tai Chung Bridge (大涌橋) and the Sun Ki Bridge (新基橋), which are opened only on the day of the Dragon Boat Festival each year to allow the deity boats and dragon boats to pass through.

The route of the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade starts on the sea surface opposite Yeung Hau Temple, then proceeds to the waters of Wang Hang, and subsequently to Tai Chung Hau, a journey that takes about two hours. 

In the past, the dragon boats would also parade through Tai O's Yi Chung, Yee Chung, and Sam Chung, but this was cancelled in the early 1980s due to the narrowness of the water channels.

This picture was taken in 1999, showing fishermen setting off firecrackers in front of Tai O's Yeung Hau Temple to pray for the deities' blessings. (Image Source: Getty)
In the past, fishermen would donate a percentage of their fishing income to support the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade as an expression of gratitude to the deities. The one with the most abundant catch, and thus the largest donation, would become the "leading boat", with the next being the "second boat", responsible for presiding over the year's main rituals such as fetching and seeing off the deities. It was a glorious task. (Image Source: Intangible Cultural Heritage Office)
Every year, the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade event attracts many tourists. (Image Source: Getty)
Tai O was once a prosperous fishing village with a peak population of 30,000. However, since the decline of the fishing industry began in the 1970s, the younger population has moved away. Today, only about 2,000 to 3,000 people live in Tai O, more than half of whom are elderly people over the age of 60. The picture shows a dragon boat on its way to Yeung Hau Temple in Tai O to fetch the deities. (Image Source: Intangible Cultural Heritage Office)

3 fishermen's associations

The Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade is organised by the "Joint Association of Traditional Dragon-Boats in Tai O", which is formed by three traditional fishermen's associations. The three associations are Hap Sim Tong (合心堂), Pa Teng Hong (扒艇行) and Sin Yu Hong (鮮魚行).

Hap Sim Tong is composed of fishermen who operate "Tai Mei Chai" boats (大尾仔艇), mainly catching yellow croakers; Pa Teng Hong is formed by fishermen in small boats who mainly catch mackerel scad; while Sin Yu Hong is an association of fish merchants who purchase and resell the fish catch.

Therefore, the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade also has the important function of bringing residents together.

In the past, the Dragon Boat Water Parade was led by members of the association with the most abundant catch of the year, but as the fishing industry later declined and Tai O's population dwindled, residents now cast Jiaobei blocks (擲筊), also known as moon blocks or divination blocks, to decide on the leading boat.

The parade of the 4 deities

During the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade on the Dragon Boat Festival, members of the fishermen's associations visit Yeung Hau Temple (楊侯廟, Marquis Prince Temple), San Tsuen Tin Hau Temple, Kwan Tai Temple and Hung Shing Temple in sequence to retrieve the deity statues, which symbolise the respective deities, for a parade in the community.

From the order in which the deities are received, it can be seen that Yeung Hau (the Marquis Prince) holds the most important status in the hearts of the Tai O people.

Held from the 4th to the 5th day of the fifth lunar month

The Tai O Water Parade is held annually on the Dragon Boat Festival, from the fourth to the fifth day of the fifth lunar month. Reportedly, the fifth lunar month is the low season for fishing, and holding the celebration at this time allows the fishermen to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival to the fullest.

Tai O, known as the "Venice of the Orient", had a prosperous fishing industry in the old days and was one of Hong Kong's most important salt pans, with a total salt field area of over 100 mu and an annual output of 1,800 tonnes at its peak. However, due to the dumping of salt from Thailand and the Chinese Mainland in Hong Kong after the war, the Tai O salt pans gradually declined and finally ceased production in 1973. (Image Source: Intangible Cultural Heritage Office)
On the morning of the day before the Dragon Boat Festival (the fourth day of the fifth lunar month), the three fishermen's associations first go to four temples (Yeung Hau Ancient Temple, Tin Hau Temple, Kwan Tai Temple, and Hung Shing Temple) to collect the small statues representing the deities, and transport them to their association bases in stilt houses, known as "dragon grouper" (龍躉), for worship. This is "receiving the deities" (接神). (Image Source: Getty)
Before the start of the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade, members of the fishermen's associations will pick calamus grass near Yeung Hau Temple and place it in the dragon's mouth on the dragon boat, a ritual known as "plucking the greens" (採青). (Image Source: Intangible Cultural Heritage Office)
Every year in Tai O, after the completion of the water parade activities on the Dragon Boat Festival, dragon boat races are held to celebrate the festive occasion. (Image Source: Getty)

6 major ritual steps

As Tai O's annual grand event, the Dragon Boat Water Parade involves six steps and rituals from preparation to conclusion.

First, at the beginning of the 5th lunar month, the fishermen's associations push the dragon boats from the "dragon sheds" where they are stored into the water and row them to shipyards for maintenance to prepare for the water parade. This step is called "pushing the dragons" (推龍 ).

Then comes "receiving the deities" (接神).

On the day before the Dragon Boat Festival, the two major fishing associations, Hap Sim Tong and Sin Yu Hong, will row their dragon boats, towing the deity sampans, to Tai O's four temples to receive the deities, bringing the spirits back to their association bases, known as "dragon grouper" (龍躉), for worship.

The third is "plucking the greens" (採青).

On the morning of the Dragon Boat Festival, the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, members of Pa Teng Hong will row a dragon boat to the hillside of Po Chue Tam (寶珠潭) behind Yeung Hau Temple to gather fresh grass, which is then placed in the dragon's mouth, this is considered "plucking the greens".

Next, the association elders perform a ritual called "feeding the dragon" (喝龍), where the blood of a rooster is mixed with white wine and sprinkled onto the dragon's head, tail, and boat body. This act is believed to ward off evil spirits.

The fifth is the main event, the "water parade", which involves a dragon boat towing a deity boat carrying the deity statues on a patrol, burning paper offerings for the wandering water ghosts along the way, while residents of nearby stilt houses welcome the deities by burning incense and worshipping.

After the water parade, dragon boat races are held to entertain both gods and mortals.

Finally is "seeing off the deities" (送神), sending the deity statues back to their respective temples. And the residents will also celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival that evening.

The decline of the fishing industry in the 1970s

In the 1970s, the population of Tai O began to decline due to the sharp decrease in fish stocks in the waters surrounding Hong Kong, the fishing industry declined. Many residents moved to urban areas for work. 

The outflow of the young population once created a crisis for the inheritance of the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade for the Dragon Boat Festival.

To unite the community and preserve the tradition of the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade, the three fishermen's associations established the "Joint Association of Traditional Dragon-Boats in Tai O" in 2008.

In 2011, the Tai O Dragon Boat Water Parade for the Dragon Boat Festival was recognised as a national intangible cultural heritage, further promoting the conservation of this regional grand event.

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