Published : 29/09/2026
The period drama Against the Current has recently become a hit on the Chinese mainland, drawing viewers in with its twists of fate within an aristocratic household and its refined Ming-dynasty garden aesthetic.
In Nanjing—ancient capital of the Six Dynasties and the Ming dynasty's first capital—traces of that world remain in its historic residences, formal architecture and the storied banks of the Qinhuai River.
Without further ado, set off on a half-day stroll through Jinling, Nanjing's historic name, and seek out the drama's elegant Ming-inspired aesthetic in the city's living streetscape.
Zhan Garden: Admiring the ingenious landscapes
Located in Nanjing's Qinhuai District, near the Confucius Temple, Zhan Garden is one of the city's oldest surviving Ming-dynasty classical gardens.
Once part of the residence of Xu Da, a founding general of the Ming, it developed from the mansion's western garden into the landscaped retreat seen today—earning the title "the First Garden of Jinling."
Though compact, Zhan Garden distils the landscapes of Jiangnan into a single space. Its defining feature is the artful arrangement of rock and water: Jingmiao Hall anchors the main garden, facing the water and framed by scenery on three sides.
A stream links the northern and southern rockeries, while the pond widens and narrows with the contours of the stones.
The northern rockery is steep and erect, the western rockery meanders and extends, while the southern rockery is known for its rugged stone peaks and cliffs close to the pond's edge, giving the small garden the layered feel of undulating mountains and winding streams.
Structures such as the Yilan Pavilion, Hualan Hall, Zhishuang Chamber, and Yingcui Chamber in the western half of the garden are scattered among the mountains, waters, and woods; a winding corridor connects the north and south, dividing the garden scenery into five small courtyards and one main garden.
Although Zhanyuan Garden is only about 8 mu, with the rockeries occupying about 3.7 mu, it still manages to have its buildings accentuate the scenery without overwhelming it, and its landscapes are arranged without extravagance, perfectly demonstrating the ingenuity of Ming dynasty Jiangnan gardens, which "gain serenity from mountains and vitality from water".
Chaotian Palace: Admiring Jinling's official-style architecture
Located on Wangfu Avenue in the Qinhuai District of Nanjing, Chaotian Palace is about a ten-minute drive from Zhanyuan Garden and currently houses the Nanjing Municipal Museum.
Chaotian Palace was named by Zhu Yuanzhang, meaning "to worship Heaven". During the Ming dynasty, the imperial family held sacrificial ceremonies and prayed for blessings here, while officials and their children learned the etiquette of having an audience with the emperor.
Although the existing buildings of Chaotian Palace were mainly rebuilt during the Tongzhi era of the Qing dynasty, the layout, featuring axial symmetry and successive courtyards, still retains the solemn grandeur of Ming dynasty official-style architecture.
Entering Chaotian Palace from the Wanren Palace Wall to the south, one first sees the Pan Pond and the memorial archway, then passes through the Lingxing Gate and Dacheng Gate to reach the main structure, Dacheng Hall. This group of buildings unfolds layer by layer along the central axis, with roofs covered in yellow coloured glaze tiles, complemented by vermilion walls, white stone platforms, and stone steps.
The vivid colours showcase the emphasis on symmetry, order, and ritual in ancient official-style architecture.
If you visit in spring, don't miss the two magnolia trees in front of Chongsheng Hall!
Every year from around February to March, white blossoms bloom on the branches, creating a sharp contrast with the yellow-green coloured glaze tiles and vermilion halls behind them, making it one of Chaotian Palace's most iconic seasonal sights.
The magnolia's flowering period usually lasts only about two weeks, with the peak bloom being even shorter. If you want to capture the image of branches full of flowers, remember to check the flower conditions and the weather before you set off.
Qinhuai River and Confucius Temple: A glimpse of Jinling's glory
Walk southeast from Chaotian Palace to reach the Confucius Temple on Gongyuan Street in Nanjing's Qinhuai District.
Built along the north bank of the Qinhuai River and beside Jiangnan Gongyuan—the Jiangnan Examination Hall—it is one of the city's most distinctive cultural landmarks.
The Confucius Temple was first established in the Northern Song dynasty.
In the early Ming, it served as the Imperial Academy before becoming the Yingtian Prefectural School, while the neighbouring examination compound grew into a major centre for the imperial civil-service examinations during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
If Zhan Garden reveals the delicacy of Ming garden design and Chaotian Palace the formality of official architecture, the Qinhuai riverfront offers a different view of the Ming capital: a lively urban quarter where ordinary people gathered, studied and made their way through the city.
At the Confucius Temple, start across the Qinhuai River with its monumental Ming-dynasty zhaobi, or spirit wall—the largest surviving ancient screen wall in China.
Instead of an artificial pond, the temple uses the flowing Qinhuai as its pan chi, or ritual pool, making it the only Confucius Temple with a natural waterway at its entrance.
Beyond the wall lies the Qinhuai waterfront, once a thriving Ming- and Qing-dynasty hub of boats, restaurants, shops and bookshops. This was the celebrated "Ten-Mile Qinhuai," where the bustle of old Jinling came to life.
From the Spring Festival to the Lantern Festival, the annual Qinhuai Lantern Festival lights up the Confucius Temple, Laomendong and Bailuzhou Park—one of Nanjing’s most festive night-time spectacles.
Travel Information
Zhan Garden, Nanjing
128 Zhanyuan Road, Qinhuai District. Daytime hours are generally 8.30am–5pm, while evening sessions usually run until around 9pm. Daytime adult tickets cost about RMB30. Allow 1–1.5 hours.
Chaotian Palace, Nanjing
No. 4 Chaotian Palace, Qinhuai District. Generally open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am–6pm, and closed on Mondays; ticket sales usually end at 5pm. Adult admission is RMB25. Allow 1–1.5 hours.
Confucius Temple, Nanjing
Gongyuan Street and the north bank of the Qinhuai River, Qinhuai District. The pedestrian streets and public riverside areas are generally open throughout the day. Entry is free, though sites such as Dacheng Hall and Jiangnan Gongyuan charge separately. Allow 1–2 hours.
Qinhuai River, Nanjing
Confucius Temple–Qinhuai River Scenic Area, Qinhuai District. The riverside is generally open all day, while painted-boat cruises operate on seasonal schedules. Walking along the river is free; cruises cost extra. Allow 1–2 hours.
Opening hours, admission fees and cruise schedules may change with the season, public holidays or special events, so check official notices before travelling.
Read more:
Discover 4 ways to enjoy night tours in Chinese ancient towns
Touring Nanjing to enjoy the extraordinary scenery of Plum Blossom Hill
Embarking on a magical time travel experience in Nanjing Grand Bao'en Temple